Being Green & Sourcing Locally

Alternate and Renewable Energy for Your Business

The next logical step - after you've done all that you can to cut your energy usage and insulate your premises - is to consider replacing some of your power supply with alternative sources.

Alternative and renewable energy options are real options. Wood, for example, is carbon neutral and cheaper than oil or coal. Solar water heating can provide up to 50% of your hot water demand and can be the only heating source for your swimming pool.

Not only do 'free' energies like sun, wind and hydro reduce your energy costs, but they also significantly cut your CO2 emissions.

What's more there may be grants available to contribute towards the installation costs and the total cost is 100% first-year deductable from your tax bill. What are you waiting for?

These are the main renewable energy options:

• Biomass - plant origin fuels
• Solar
• Wind
• Hydro (electricity from moving water)
• Ground source heat pumps (and air and water source heat pumps)

Biomass

Biomass is any organic product that can be sustainably grown and used as fuel. Wood is the most common biomass. Contrary to what you might expect, wood is a carbon neutral, renewable source of energy - provided the wood comes from correctly managed sources.

During the course of its life, a tree takes in carbon from the atmosphere. When you burn the wood you are releasing the carbon back, which would happen anyway if the tree died and rotted - hence wood is a carbon neutral energy source.

Sustainable suppliers plant as many trees as they cut down, meaning that wood is a renewable energy source - it keeps being replenished and isn't a finite source like coal or oil. To find renewable log and pellet suppliers visit www.logpile.co.uk.

Grow your own

If you've got the space, consider growing your own wood for fuel - quick growing hybrid willows and poplars can be coppiced and then harvested within 4 years, and then every four years thereafter. Unlike trees which have a single trunk, they send up many shoots from the ground level, so when cut, they simply regrow. They cope in dry or wet conditions, can be used for screening and windbreaks, can be pruned to prevent them growing too high and by planting four rows and harvesting just one row a year, while the rest regenerate, you can provide a fully sustainable, annual source of wood fuel. Search the internet for hybrid willows or poplars for more information.

Ways to burn wood

There are a number of ways to burn wood:

• Open fires - pretty but very inefficient. 80 - 85% of the heat goes up the chimney! The draw of oxygen required can sometimes create drafts that outweigh the heat benefits!
• Wood burning stove - these are much more efficient (only about 30% of heat is lost). The right stove can be used in a smokeless zone. Backboilers can be fitted to heat radiators or hot water tanks.
• Ceramic stoves - these have large internal flues which retain heat for up to 24 hours after the last firing and are up to 90% efficient.
• Wood fired ranges - these can be used for cooking, hot water and central heating.
• Log and woodchip burning boilers - these can be used for central heating.
• Pellet stoves and boilers - these burn pellets made from waste wood. They are much more expensive to install but are up to 95% efficient and ongoing running costs can be cheaper than coal or oil.

For more information (and to find certified suppliers of sustainable wood) go to www.logpile.co.uk or the Energy Saving Trust biomass pages.

Biofuels

The other mainstream use of biomass is as biofuel.

If you own a diesel vehicle, it is possible to run it on a clean biomass oil, such as vegetable oil. You can either use your own fuel, like straight vegetable oil, or purchase commercially generated biofuels. Commercially generated biofuels can sometimes be a mix of regular mineral diesel with a biomass oil. Watch for the percentages to see if the fuel is as green as you'd like.

Straight vegetable oil is a carbon neutral option, since although burning the oil produces CO2, it only releases as much as the plant absorbed during growing. Biofuels like these also produce less greenhouse gases and fewer local pollutants than mineral diesel.

For some types of engine - particularly older ones - you can just pour vegetable oil into the tank and go. However, this is NOT recommended - you should consult a mechanic and get a qualified modification. Newer types of engine, especially ones with lucas injection pumps, cannot run on biofuel without a modification, and attempting to do so will damage your engine. Be aware also that many engines won't start or will develop longer term problems if started on vegetable oil, so two tanks are needed in order to start the engine on diesel before switching to the biofuel when warm.

The modifications required are quick and relatively inexpensive, so certainly worth considering. However, be aware that modifying a new car can invalidate its manufacturer's warranty.

Vegetable oil is considerably cheaper than diesel, is carbon neutral and produces less pollutants. Also, since changes to the law that took effect from June 2007, you no longer have to pay fuel tax if you use less than 2,500 litres per year. This means you can legally buy vegetable oil from a food retailer and use it as fuel without paying additional tax. You can also obtain used oil and clean it for use as fuel also without paying additional tax, provided, in both cases, you are using less than 2,500 litres per year. See the Revenue & Customs pages for more.

Read this BBC article on running your car on biofuel for more information http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/7047128.stm

Solar

Solar power is a real energy alternative - solar water heating, for example, can contribute up to 50% of hot water needs. It can significantly reduce energy costs and carbon emissions.

For domestic or business use, there are essentially two types of solar power options:

• Solar water heating (also known as Solar Thermal)
• Electricity generation from sunlight (also known as Photovoltaics or Solar Electricity)

Solar water heating (also known as Solar Thermal)

Good for: domestic hot water requirements, business hot water requirements, swimming pools, underfloor heating.

In the summer months solar water heating can supply all, or nearly all, of hot water demand. This drops considerably in the winter, but still heats the water sufficiently, between 20º and 35º, to only require topping up by the conventional boiler.

To get going with solar hot water you need a collector panel on the roof, a heat exchanger and a cylinder - this can be your existing cylinder if it's in good condition and well insulated.

Panels are either the flat type (cheaper but less efficient) or the tube type (more expensive to buy but more effective). Flat types can be mounted flush with the roof, tube types are usually mounted on it (ie above it). It is also possible to purchase 'tracker' systems, where the panels are mounted on swivel brackets that allow them to turn in order to keep facing the sun. These are more expensive though more efficient.

If your existing cylinder is adequate, the heat transfer system can be integrated into it (though there will be some external bulk, as part of the system will be mounted against the side of your tank). Alternatively you can be supplied with a special tank that incorporates both the solar and conventional heating elements, and is double insulated.

You will need at least 2 - 3 metres of south facing roof (anywhere through south east to south west is adequate) to accommodate a domestic scale system. Obviously more area is required to increase the supply.

To find out more visit:
The Energy Saving Trust solar thermal pages
To find a supplier certified by BERR visit:http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/info/installers/find/installerfind
To find products certified by BERR visit:
http://www.clear-skies.org/households/RecognisedProducts.aspx

Solar generated electricity (Photovoltaics)

Excellent for: boats, caravans, cabins etc. Powering lights where no mains is available (security lights, outdoor lighting, indoor lighting, lighting in stables etc). Powering or recharging low wattage appliances like mobile phones, ipods, dvds, TVs, PCs etc.

Good for: offsetting your energy costs by generating electricity that gets returned to the national grid.

Although it is possible to generate all the electricity a home or small business requires, in practice this isn't usually economically viable due to the costs of purchasing enough PV panels. However technology is improving all the time, and larger scale solar electricity generation may become increasingly viable.

How does it work?

There are two types:

• Small, portable devices that provide electricity for specific purposes, eg: ipod and mobile chargers, solar lighting kits (for indoor, outdoor and security lighting).
• Larger solar panels - which can be mounted on a roof or free standing - which generate electricity that is either stored in batteries (with the additional cost and maintenance) or returned, through your meter to the national grid.

All the devices work the same way - photoelectric panels use light (not heat) from the sun to generate electricity. This can be used directly by the device (as in the case of solar radios or solar battery chargers), stored in batteries (suitable for powering boats, cabins and caravan or can be directly plugged into via an extension cable for running DVDs, TVs etc) or returned to the national grid.

In the latter case two meters are installed, one which measures the amount of electricity being generated through your panels and the other, like an ordinary meter, which measures what you are consuming. What you generate offsets the cost of what you draw. In the (unlikely) event you generate more than you consume, you receive payment.

There are a range of interesting and practical products on the market which use this technology. Here are just a few:

• Boat or caravan 12V or 24V battery recharger
• Home office solar kit (doesn't require mains, directly plug low wattage devices like laptops, printers etc)
• Fluorescent lighting kit (doesn't require mains, powers two fluorescent strips for up to 8 hours)
• 12V security light kit (doesn't require mains)
• Stables lighting kit (doesn't require mains)
• AA battery charger (doesn't require mains)
• Solar radio (also has wind up handle)
• Mobile phone charger (doesn't require mains)
• Laptop charger (doesn't require mains)

For more on solar power visit the Energy Saving Trust solar pages
To find a certified supplier click here: http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/info/installers/find/installerfind

To find certified PV products click here:
http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/download.cfm?p=12&pid=879

Wind

This is another realistic option which reduces your energy charges and cuts your emissions. 40% or Europe's available wind power potential is in the UK! Wind turbines have been used to good effect for many years on boats and caravans for recharging 12V or 24V batteries. Better technology means they are quieter and more efficient.

As with solar energy, the electricity generated can either be returned to the grid (and will offset your use) or can be stored in batteries.

Turbines range in size according to needs and available wind. The higher they are sited the better they perform - so roof or mast siting is better.

The key issue is ... wind. You need a minimum amount of wind to make the investment worthwhile, so don't consider this if you are relatively sheltered. Best locations are at the top of a smooth hill with no trees or building to create turbulence. That said, there are products designed for urban use, although the Energy Saving Trust recommends that turbines are best sited where:

• The average windspeed is at least 6 m/s (check on the BERR website).
• There are no significant obstacles nearby such as buildings or trees.

Prices range from £200 - £300 for a small turbine that will charge a 24V battery, to £8 - 9000 to power a 3 bedroom house (without heating), to £25 - 30,000 for a community turbine.

For more visit the Energy Saving Trust wind pages.

To find a certified supplier click here: http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/info/installers/find/installerfind

To find certified products click here:
http://www.clear-skies.org/households/recognisedproducts.aspx

Small scale hydro power

Hydro power is perhaps one of the oldest ways of providing power - water mills have been used extensively throughout history. Consistent improvements in technology mean that even a small stream will produce power.

Small scale hydro is cheaper to install per kw of production than other renewables and is more consistent. The flow of water tends to change gradually rather than sudden drops in wind speed or the going down of the sun. It is also less obtrusive.

How much power you can generate depends on how much water you have, flowing at what speed and particularly the 'head' - how far the water is dropping, for instance where a stream runs down a hillside, over a waterfall or across a man-made weir. This doesn't have to be a huge drop (think of the weirs you've seen) and you don't need a large volume of water, but the greater the head the better the potential.

Hydro electric turbines can be sited alone with the power being stored in batteries, or connected to the mains grid, where the power generated is offset against your usage (and any excess generates an income).

Turbines can be established for home or commercial use or larger turbines can be set up for community use. More specialist planning is required than for either wind or solar. If you are interested in hydro power, the water source will need to be surveyed by an expert who will do a feasibility study - how much power could be produced by what sized turbine at what cost.

As with other renewables, grants may be available.
For more information on hydro electricity visit the Energy Saving Trust hydro pages

To find a certified supplier click here: http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/info/installers/find/installerfind
To find certified products click here:
http://www.clear-skies.org/households/RecognisedProducts.aspx

Ground source heat pumps

Although these sound extremely cutting edge, the technology

has been around for a long time - it works the same way that your fridge does!

On our planet, the sun warms the ground. At the surface the ground temperature changes, according to the seasons, but if you dig down below the surface (to about 1.1m) the temperature is a fairly consistent 8 - 12º. Ground source heat pumps work by extracting this heat in the same way that your fridge works - but by then capturing the recovered heat rather than just blowing it out the back.

A trench is dug at about 1.1m (or a deeper borehole, if there isn't much horizontal area to work with) and a network of pipes is laid at this level and filled with water and antifreeze. A pump pushes this fluid around the pipes so that it gradually absorbs the heat from the surrounding soil. The ground source heat pump then extracts this heat (via a heat exchanger, evaporator, compressor and condenser - the same technology as your fridge) and uses it to heat hot water in a tank. This can then be used for central heating or underfloor heating. Underfloor heating is more efficient because it requires a lower temperature (30 - 35º) than radiators.

Ground source heat pumps can be installed anywhere. However, the network of underground pipes is quite large. In buildings that have a lot of space around them this isn't problematical - normal diggers can excavate the ground, lay the pipework and fill back in. In premises where there isn't much surrounding space the pipes have to be laid vertically - requiring deeper excavation and therefore more specialist digging equipment. This can push up the cost. If you are planning a new build of any kind, this is an excellent time to consider a ground source heat pump.

This system works best for space heating, particularly for underfloor heating, although it can also be used for hot water.

It is a very reliable source of heat. However, unlike other renewables it doesn't lead to free heating, there are ongoing energy costs for the power required to pump the liquid around the pipes and to run the heat pump, compressor etc to extract the heat. The efficiency of the pump is therefore determined by how many units of heat it outputs for each unit of electricity it consumes. Typically this is a ratio of 3:1 or better (more for underfloor heating). It can save between 20% and 50% of heating costs, depending on the type of fuel being replaced.

A typical 6 - 8kw system (for a 3 bedroom house) can cost between £7 and 11,000.

Air and water source heat pumps

These operate on the same principles but extract the heat from an air source or a water source. Air source heat pumps are good at recovering wasted heat from exhaust systems as well as deriving heat from the ambient air and water source heat pumps can provide power to homes near to lakes and streams.

For more visit: http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/generate_your_own_energy/types_of_renewables/ground_source_heat_pumps

To find a certified supplier click here: http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/info/installers/find/installerfind

To find certified products click here:
http://www.clear-skies.org/households/RecognisedProducts.aspx